Christmastime in Tenochtitlan
<p>The best time to be in Mexico City is between December 12 and January 6. During that three-and-a-half-week period, beginning on the day of the Virgin of Guadalupe and ending on Epiphany, the megalopolis’s ungodly traffic subsides. As a result, the yellow-gray layer of smog that typically hovers above the city vanishes, revealing the majestic snow-capped mountains that surround the Valley of Mexico. When I was growing up, my parents would sometimes call me to their room on clear mornings to look out their window at Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl, the famous volcanoes that, according to Aztec legend, are a lapidified princess lying on her back and a warrior kneeling by her side. I wasn’t particularly impressed by the view back then, but on a recent trip to Mexico City over Christmas, I found it awe-inspiring.</p>
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