The city is dirty, smelly, and very seedy in places. The traffic is a nightmare, and the air quality is often poor. The sidewalks are teeming with people and are a battlefield of tree roots, open manholes, and craters to avoid with every step.
In contrast, the city has excellent parks, stunning temples, amazing food, and an entrepreneurial vibe stronger than anywhere I have ever been. If you have a table you own a store, if there is a basket on your moped, you have a mobile store, commerce is everywhere.