Asakusa’s Senso-ji temple and surrounding grounds have long been the poster child of tourist-centred publications for Japan since the dawn of commercial travel. Consequently, as a weathered and miserable long-term gaikokujin, you would find that I and many like me consider this place a bit of a no man’s land due to its branding as a tourist rat run.
In the past few years, Taito Ward (the proud host of Asakusa) and its neighbouring Sumida Ward have undergone a whirlwind transformation. As the sun sets and the crowds retreat, Asakusa unveils its hidden side. While most shops close up shop, a determined few remain, offering pocket-friendly treats to us penny-pinching wanderers and those looking for lowkey and sensory experiences.