‘Emergent Tokyo’: What Makes Japan’s Capital so Alluring?
<p>Twilight was coming on as I walked through the narrow alleyways of Shibuya’s diminutive Nonbei Yokocho neighborhood. Despite over a decade of visiting Shibuya for the usual carousing and shopping, I’d somehow missed the <em>yokocho</em>‘s existence; something that has only become easier as Shibuya has been built up, massive highrises obscuring even more of its environs. As the book then in my backpack describes, the block of minuscule bars “sits relatively unnoticed between giant modern skyscrapers, a pocket of life in the midst of the global city.” Somehow, it’d taken reading ‘<strong>Emergent Tokyo</strong>‘ to introduce me to one of the city’s coolest backstreets.</p>
<p>The backstreets in question are one of many distinctive <em>yokocho</em> neighborhoods scattered across Tokyo. <em>Yokocho</em> (横丁) are narrow, semi-hidden alleyways filled with bars and restaurants; they often carry a feeling of old Tokyo, like something out of the early postwar era. That makes sense, since many of the most famous <em>yokocho</em> emerged from the black markets that crowded around major train stations in the wake of the devastation of WWII. Shinjuku’s now-internationally famous Golden Gai is an especially prominent <em>yokocho</em>; Nonbei Yokocho (“Drunkard’s Alley”) is smaller, both in terms of overall footprint and bar size.</p>
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